Rome
R0me: The Eternal City
Rome has been a epicenter of art, politics, and religion for over two millennia. Alongside Athens, where I visited in the spring, Rome laid the foundations of Western civilization, shaping our laws, society, and government in profound ways. What I love most about Rome — and it is truly one of my favorite cities — is that you can immerse yourself in its rich history and culture simply by walking its streets. Whether you're exploring its magnificent architecture, stepping inside ancient churches, or wandering through the ruins of iconic sites, you are physically experiencing the legacy of its vast empire.
Pantheon, Trevi Fountain and Colosseum
The holy trinity of Rome’s monuments are the Pantheon, Trevi Fountain and the Colosseum. Their pull is gravitational to all tourists to Rome, and for good reason. I would argue, however, that you should visit them strategically, so that you have time to experience some of the incredibly impactful and valuable site beyond the big three. That being said, here’s my top tips for accessing these sites
Pantheon
The largest unreinforced concrete dome in history
30 foot diameter oculus - the only source of light
Originally a temple to all gods, it was preserved as a church in 609 AD
Supported by 16 solid granite columns imported from Egypt
Burial place of famous Italians - Raphael and Italy’s first King
A building as a sundial
The best preserved ancient building in all of Rome
There are so many fun facts about the Pantheon - and it my probably my #1 favorite building in the entire world. The best way to access the building is my contacting the Basilica of Santa Maria (they run the church on behalf of the Vatican) and getting a timed ticket and audio guide for 15 euro. You get a special entry lane and the guide is super helpful and its included in the price. Beat the crowds and plan ahead is key for all of Rome’s monuments, especially here.
Trevi Fountain
Some folks fetishize a photo at the Trevi Fountain - getting up a 4am to beat the crowds - or any number of tricks to get a crowd-free shot of the monument. For me, there’s a 5 minute, easy answer to accessing this site. Go to the 2nd floor of the Benneton store and there are two windows that give unobstructed views that are just perfect. Zero wait, zero fuss. Here’s the view - it is simply stunning!
The Colosseum
I don’t typically do a lot of small group tours when I travel, but there are definitely sites where this is necessary to navigate the lines, maximize your day and where some history and context are valuable. The Colosseum is one such site. Shout out to LivTours and Giorgio for hosting a top notch tour of the Colosseum and the Roman Forum - this was a half-day really well spent. You’ll understand when you see the line of people who have yet to buy tickets that snakes around the entire perimeter of the Colosseum. I was done and eating pasta by the time they bought their tickets.
Much of the history of the Colosseum has come down to us through the Gladiator franchise - I watched Gladiator 2 on the plane over to Rome - but nothing compares to the scale of space, the immediacy of the spectators to the action and the inventiveness of the entertainment…scenery, plants, animals, banners, music all added to the drama of the fight to the death battles that took place in this arena. The Roman Forum is right next door - so definitely get a guided tour of the forum, the senate ruins, the hill overlooking Rome and all of the sites of the seat of power for ancient Rome.
St. Peter’s and The Vatican Museum
2025 was a very special year for Catholics - a Jubilee year coinciding with the election a new Pope (from the USA and went to college right where I grew up in Villanova, PA) - which mean that all of the monuments, streets and museums were all looking their best and ready to welcome the world to Rome. For me, I can’t pass up an opportunity to visit the Vatican Museum - especially for the renovated Raphael rooms, sculptures like the Apollo Belvedere and, of course, the Sistine Chapel. St. Peter's is also a must see, if only for the Bernini altarpiece and the Michelangelo Pieta. Tickets in advance are a must for the museum and go early - this is site where you want to be ahead of the crowds to enjoy the art up close. Here are my top artworks among many…
Vatican Museum
St. Peter’s Basilica
Borghese Gallery
One of the best stops in all of Rome for me is the Borghese Gallery. It has several monumental sculptures and is a hidden gem within the Borghese park that is underrated for it’s importance. The Apollo and Daphne - where Daphne is literally turning into a Linden tree before your eyes to escape the unwanted clutches of the god - David’s taut muscularity and focus before slaying Goliath and The Rape of Proserpina (left) - with the god’s hands pressing into the thigh so convincingly - are all Bernini masterworks. The Caravaggios are just magnetic - Sick Baccus self portrait is worth the trip alone.
Pasta, Wine and Gelato
Roman food is typically simple, hearty and delicious. Simple pastas like cacio e pepe, amatriciana and al gricia are all a thick or thin noodle with a cheese sauce with some getting fancy with smoky bacon and tomato sauce. Some of my top spots were Harry’s Bar, a classic on the Via Vento - the famously elegant street that feels like La Dolce Vita, the rooftop at the Bernini Bristol - where I met up with my college friend Lucretia!!! - and a small neighborhood spots like Fraschetteria, Clavdia and La Locanda di Bacco. chefs kiss
Only open a few months, I was lucky enough to visit the first and only Orient Express hotel in the world - La Minerva. Housed in a former wealthy Portuguese trader’s home, OE has polished up the place to a high shine. A burger and vesper martini was the perfect pit stop on a busy day. Grazie!
Parting Shot - Lucretia & me on the rooftop of Bernini Bristol hotel
